Day 31: End of the Road...

August 3

And so it began… the beginning of our final excursion together as a group. So to Antwerp we went, and a glorious adventure it was. Upon arrival the rains poured down from above behind the backdrop of a chilly breeze and gloomy skies, as if the heavens were lamenting the end of our journey. But there was no time for nostalgia here, not while the day was still young and much to look forward to. This simple concept applies especially here, as looking back to reminisce would cause us to lose grasp of what is right there in front of us: this would most assuredly mean stumbling over the particularly rough cobblestone, tumbling down the 500 steps of the belfry stairway, going overboard on the sometimes turbulent boat tour, or falling behind in our mad dash to the train station.

Despite the pouring rains this day took on a rather celebratory tone, beginning with the sounds of “Mr. Sandman” from our carilloneur Geert d’Hollander. It was a hearty greeting to the wealth, glory, and industriousness of Antwerp. We were told that Antwerp is known to be the most beautiful city in all of the Low Countries. I quote from the reader that “every aspect of Flemish life is exemplified in Antwerp” ranging from riches, huge economic potential, love of art and literature, and baroque architecture. Antwerp certainly did not disappoint, in any of those regards. My only complaint about the city is that there is simply too much to see and not enough time of day to experience it all.

Our boat ride on The Flandria was much less oriented with the city of Antwerp, but at least what I got out of it was an introspective look at the group after our five weeks together. I saw it this way as Eva told me when we embarked, “We began with a boat tour and end with a boat tour.” It is amazing how close we have all become here in such a short amount of time. According to Nicole, last year’s group didn’t become so close until the final week or so; in contrast, we all seemed to get along well from the very start and our friendships have grown even stronger as time has progressed. There is no drama, no cliques, no resentment nor dislike (other than the fact that Professor Dewulf openly dislikes my earrings hahaha). I am very grateful to have been on such an experience, in three beautiful countries, through more than a dozen breathtaking cities, with 25 of the friendliest and most pleasant bunch of people I have ever been around.

The End

Day 30: Fries, Beer, and Waffles!

August 2

If I didn’t know any better, I would say that the three staples of a Flemish diet are fries, waffles, and of course beer. The fries would be the main course, a beer to cleanse the palette, and finally a waffle for dessert. These delicious snacks have gone a long way in terms of quick and cheap sustenance in our usually intensively scheduled days (and nights). They are each fuel to the burning flame of curiosity, exploration, and adventure. But a single blog can ill afford to describe to importance of these three essential foodstuffs. So today’s topic of choice is… BEER!!! J

As we all know, alcohol plays a major role in student life and activities, no matter how much academia wants to deny it. The latest statistic I have seen put forth that 1 out of every 2 college students enjoys his or her fill of alcohol on occasion. It is simply a part of student life. But never before have I come across the student-alcohol relationship in such an outright form as I witnessed in Leuven University’s dining commons. A beer is offered complimentary with each meal! (Pause) Yes, I just needed a moment for that statement to settle in. Upon seeing this, I recall a state of surprise and excitement. But I should be used to this by, with the Dutch mentality that there is nothing to hide. I guess I didn’t realize that this also applies to public intoxication. My favorite applicable quote I have come across in Leuven I read in the city tourist guide, “drinking alcohol on the streets is not allowed after 00.00 and before 8.00 in the morning. In bars or on terraces, you can drink whatever you want, 24/7.”

We ended our scheduled activities for the day with the tour of InBev Belgium, the world’s largest beer company (not to be mistaken with largest bear company that is listed in the syllabus). The InBev facility tour provided a wealth of knowledge to supplement our firsthand experiences of Belgian brews. We learned of the optimum brewing temperatures, fermentation periods, sustainable means of production involved, filtration versus non-filtration, bottling and exportation. We found refuge from the scorching sun within the just hot and humid confines of InBev. But thankfully, our tour culminated with an ice cold Stella Artois straight from the tap, for us all to enjoy together as a group. It was a great ending to a fantastic day in Leuven.

Day 29: Urban Studies in Leuven

August 1

Alas, we arrive in Leuven. A bittersweet moment it is. I say this as on the one hand the city is vibrant and gorgeous, the hostel is wonderful, and the coming week is full of excitement. I’m sure it is too early to make the call, but perhaps our stay in Leuven fits in along the lines of “saving the best for last.” With that said, last implies closure; therefore I call this bittersweet because on the other hand, we know that our stay in Europe is coming to an end. Already, with the week just begun, there is heavy usage of the phrase “last time.” Put into context, “this is the last time we can all go out together” or “this is our last time to splurge on a meal.” Oftentimes, this roughly translates to another common saying among the group: might as well, we’re in Europe!

So, here we are in Leuven, a college town and home of one of the oldest universities in the world and first in the Low Countries. I found it very interesting that the city retained much of its Middle Age forms and designs despite the town being close to leveled twice in the past century. Our guide Professor Pasteure commented on the city being a perfect circle, with radiating boulevards that extend out from the center of the city. In urban design, a road such as that is characterized as an axis to create a sense of relation between two points. In this case Bondgenotenlaan serves as the axis between the train station and the central square. Much of this relativity is created through visual perception, where the eye is drawn down the boulevard to the other end (the term used is node), attracting visitors and citygoers to the various points of interest.

This method of city design first came to prominence in the late 19^th century with the Hausman Plan for Paris, where grand throughways and beltways cut in and around the heart of the previously grid-based city. Unfortunately, the city planners of Leuven are responsible for two fatal mistakes as our guide mentioned: the two large scale projects of the town hall and cathedral were far too ambitious as they nearly bankrupted the city. The once great city of Leuven fell behind Brussels in competition for the head of Belgium.

Day 26: Money Talks

July 29

Today we visited Bruges, commonly accepted as one of the most beautiful cities in the Low Countries. During our picnic, Professor Dewulf presented the city as the highlight of the program visits. It did however come with a single warning, that Bruges would be a step into a true medieval city, preserved in all of its mysteries and antiquities… if it were not for the hordes of tourists that pass through each month. And as with any such attraction, there is always great business in the tourism. Because of this, and despite the centuries of history and design that time has not erased, the way the city caters to foreigners takes away from the authentic nature that the city would otherwise undoubtedly have. But that is a small complaint and takes little away in comparison to the beauty, grandeur, and historical significance of Bruges.

During our tour, Professor Dewulf described Bruges in the Middle Ages as the New York or Shanghai of today. At its height, it was the wealthiest city in Europe and could boast the tallest belfry at its center. Another interesting fact of the city’s prominence is it being the home of the world’s first stock exchange to supplement its banking industry. The extravagance of Bruges can best be exemplified in the purchase of the most exquisite relic to draw Catholics to its cathedral: the city acquired a vial of the blood of Christ. I will not discuss the validity of such a claim, but I will say that such as acquisition conveys the very materialistic and superficial nature of the city. There is a famous quote from the movie Jerry Maguire that the sums up my opinion of the city, where the purely money-minded protagonist played by Tom Cruise yells at the top of his lungs “SHOW ME THE MONEY!”

Interestingly enough, as Bruges was such an international city, its relationship with foreign interests brought in great wealth as well as conflict. For example, France attempted to thwart its trade with the United Kingdom in wartime, due to the large market the city provided. Additionally, Bruges reliance on Ostende ports consequently marked the decline of the city when Ostende was taken away from the Netherlands. Without its port, Antwerp and Amsterdam became the de facto economic powerhouses of the Low Countries. Today Bruges is dominated by the tourist industry, full of designer boutiques and chain stores to cater to the masses: a pristine medieval city with a contemporary spin.

Day 25: A Day of Remebrance

July 28

Ieper is the second of the three great medieval cities we visit during this three day span. It was similar to Ghent in that it served as one of the industrial cores of Flanders, but with less significance as a commercial outlet. But at least in terms of aesthetics, the central square of Ieper I would say is even grander than that of Ghent. Of course, this is purely subjective and also takes into account the improved weather conditions and lack of a festival to clean up after. Additionally Ghent reminded me of Berkeley, where each and every day something new in going under maintenance or construction.

But alas, the main part of the story of Ieper is not of its medieval significance nor of its contemporary beauty, but rather of the role the city played during the Great War. In WWI, Ieper served as one of the strongholds of Belgian defenses against the German invasion. And when the once conventional combat style shifted towards the drawn out trench warfare, Ieper was right at the forefront of the carnage. When we studied Ieper in lecture last week, we were given a preview of the destruction and saw how much of the city was leveled. That scene, however, did not portray the bravery and sacrifice that has become synonymous with the city and its heroic role in the war effort.

I found this entire day to be particularly moving, not so much in glorifying war and violence that is often done in movies, but instead in revealing the struggles of a nation in resistance; Belgium’s assertion of neutrality was not honored and drove them to fight for their own independence. This is something we can all relate to, in fighting for freedom and civil liberties against an encroachment on our natural rights.

The transition between the Flanders Fields Museum, the war cemetery, the old trenches and ramparts, and finally culminating with the Last Post Memorial was a very emotional journey. WWI left much of Europe in a wasteland, full of death and decay. Our city guide Wouter Sinaeve did a tremendous job of conveying both the pain of the struggle as well as the pride in the resistance during the war. Although nearly a century has passed, Ieper will be forever entrenched with the heroism of which it was associated.

The Great War was said to be the “war to end all wars.” Apparently this was not the case as time would tell. One of the lasting impressions I had of our trip to Iepers is of the Last Post and what was said of it. Yes, the Last Post is a commemoration of the efforts of the fallen soldiers, but also to serve as a reminder of the ideals of the Great War. It is important to have these daily confrontations with the past in order to move forward into a better tomorrow.