Day 24: Old Ghent, New Ghent

July 27

We began our tour of Flanders with one of its three main medieval cities, Ghent. Ghent itself was extremely wealthy at the height of its power, and still maintains some of that notoriety today as one of the largest cities in Belgium. To kick off this day, our tour guide Prof. Prevenier put forth that “The medieval city is not fallen from heaven; it is created.”

With that said, the city of Ghent was formed on the backbone of business and industry that propelled it to one of the most significant ports in Europe. Situated at the crossing of the two rivers Scheldt and Lys, its position as a major trade city became firmly established. With the wealth garnered from its port, commerce and production, Ghent cemented itself as the heart of Flanders and for a time as among the largest and richest cities in the world (second only to Paris).

We mainly focused on the old city center and canals through the city in order to get a glimpse into the world it once was. One of the key points our guide made is of the difference between genuinely medieval architecture and pseudo-medieval styles. We even performed several exercises to distinguish the legitimately old buildings from the relatively newer ones. And I would have to say that upon first glance it is easy to mistake the two for one another.

Another aspect of the tour that struck me is of the desire to maintain public open space. The plazas that are so much more prevalent in Europe as opposed to the United States seem to me to have three important functions in everyday life here.

1) They serve as centerpieces or nodes: points of interest and significance within the city. And it certainly draws a crowd.

2) Plazas are social gathering points, where locals can not only meet up but also socialize. It serves as hotspot for interaction, as opposed to simply a place to eat during an afternoon lunch break (as is typical of many plazas back home.)

3) As pointed out during the tour, plazas serve a civic function. They become the focal points for uprising; it is a space to give voice to the people.

That is not to say that plazas in the US do not serve similar functions, but rather that European plazas are granted the notion of greater significance. They are where the city lives and breathes. Plazas are the heart of medieval style cities. It was nice to observe the city through such an analytical lens, and gave me an even deeper appreciation for Ghent.

Day 23: Take a Hike!

July 26

Zwin! Oh, the Zwin. From what I remember, our energy levels took a nosedive as the day went on. Perhaps it was our excitement from the bird sanctuary, or maybe even the idea of running barefoot through the grass, but the relatively quiet mood and bus full of snoring Cal students was a stark contrast from the usually highly energetic group we have here. Even tonight, I feel it may be the first night that everybody stays put in the hostel after 10pm. This side effect of hiking may also be compounded by the fact that we are just over 2/3 of the way done.

But that is not to say that this hike was not enjoyable, as a hike is not a hike if you don’t feel the need to have a store bought (and microwaveable) feast, a hot shower, and a long nap. I found the whole experience rather refreshing, to walk down a seemingly endless landscape of salt-resistant wildflowers and grasses. It was a nice change from all the developed cityscapes and tourist traps that we spend the majority of our time in. I felt especially liberated upon removing my shoes and running barefoot through the sandy trail, patches of grass, and the gooey silt many of us struggled with at each stream crossing.

And with this, we came to the road less traveled, and made our own path through the brush. The bad news is that for many of us, our bare legs paid the price of cuts and rashes. The good news is that, for those adventurous enough to walk through the silt, we were rewarded with a protective layer of mud.

Overall, I felt that this was a very rewarding experience and invaluable to the program as a whole. The Zwin offered a glimpse of the natural landscape unlike anything we have seen for the past month. The shift from the built environment to this preserved wetland was much needed, at least for one day to just get away from the bustling city centers. In this case and as the saying goes, the grass is much greener on the other side.

Day 22: Life is a Beach

July 25

Ostend is said to be among the most famous coastal cities in Europe. So back to my ongoing theme of expectations and realizations (which I always seem to want to talk about), I pictured Ostend as the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk of Belgium. I imagined grand promenades, food stands, amusement parks and thrill rides to line the beachfront. I imagined the smell of caramel-dipped apples, cotton candy, and all variations of fried goodies to mix with the salty ocean breeze and fill the air with that familiar and lovable scent.

But such places as Santa Cruz were only created within the past century, while Ostend was shaped by numerous centuries of history. A fun fact is that Ostend served as a strategic military post for the British, Dutch, and Spanish. It also became a major seaport at one point, especially as a link between Great Britain and the mainland. But today, as best quoted in our reader, “in modern Ostend, there is little of history, and its romance is the romance of extravagance.” As the need for the port of Ostend fell to lesser significance, the desire for a seaside resort grew greater.

We learned that the greatest influences on Ostend today is of the health consciousness movement and the desire for coastal palaces that King Leopold himself set the precedent for. Extravagance is hardly an exaggeration, as these grand palaces once lined the entire seaside promenade, of which there are still remnants of today. Through the years, the town grew in popularity to attract beachgoers all across the country and become quite the tourist trap. Now, many international chain stores line the streets and walkways, adding to the notion of extravagance.

With that said, I am very much excited for our stay here in Ostend, as the sense of nostalgia for my beloved California coastline often comes and goes. But until I return home, this will serve as a perfect slice of home.

Day 19: European Union!

July 22

It is amazing how such a vast amount of knowledge can be gained in such a short period of time, or better yet how well-known fact is still oblivious to other people. I say this as prior to our study program, I had no clue as to the existence of the European Union. Interestingly enough, in a recent discussion with my classmate Cecily, I learned that schools in China instruct their students about the European Union. In America, there is not even a mere mention of EU business.

From what we learned today, the EU appears to be a significant (and very ambitious) move towards a web of interconnectivity and cooperation between all Europeans. In the United States, the thought of separate, independent states is so unheard of. In fact, the last time such thoughts were discussed in America, a civil war broke out. With that said, the very thought of a stronger Union in Europe is very fascinating to me, especially considering the continuous state of conflict and tension that engulfed the continent throughout the course of history. To think, until just 75 years ago, many of the great powers were bitter rivals and diplomacy was nearly impossible. And fast forward to present day Europe, we have this binding union that in theory will keep all of Europe on the same page with the interests of every state as a whole before its component parts.

But the EU is not without its flaws. There is the issue of strong individual interests that come before a stronger union, such as the Swiss and Norwegian refusal to join. Furthermore, the general population as a whole does not think a true confederation of government should be created. Whether this is a good or bad thing remains to be seen, however. Lastly, there is the whole Euro crisis, the issue of Greek bankruptcy, and the overall worldwide financial meltdown that the EU is currently struggling with. These crises will certainly reveal the true strength of the union.

But as we learned in lecture yesterday, we must all view this system in the context of European history, as such a system today was simply impossible. Hopefully, when it all settles, we will see the EU as a big step in the right direction.

Day 18: Independence Day!

July 21

Today was another day where we were mostly free to enjoy ourselves here in Brussels, which was great as it was Belgian Independence Day. I felt that I could sympathize especially well with this day, as for the first time in my life I missed out on America’s 4^th of July. But before I get into the celebration, I would like to touch on a couple of the activities we experienced beforehand. First was our lecture on the history of the Pan-Euro sentiment and the current European Union. Most importantly, Europe has been torn apart throughout history up until the immediate post-WWII era. The EU was a significant step forward in foreign relations policy, especially between many former rival nations in Western Europe.

Moving along with this idea of interdependence and peaceful coexistence, we have before us the Belgian independence. According to the reader, this came as a result of both Catholic and Liberal movements joining forces in seek of political freedom and participation, in what was referred to as the “monstrous alliance.” The rebellion succeeds and Leopold I becomes Belgium’s first king on this day in 1831.

1) I did not know what to expect, as we were instructed that:

1) 2) There is less national sympathy, and more regional sentiment.

2) 3) Many are of the opinion that secession is necessary for Belgium to move forward

3) 4) The national government has been at a standstill for over a year now

4) 5) The Royal Family is generally not admired as other monarchs, as they are not even of Belgian descent.

But lo and behold, there was a strong sense of national pride, at least from what we witnessed here in Brussels. Flags flew high and majestic, festivals packed into many of the major plazas, and the entire city shut down to mobilize in celebration. It was quite a sight, as energetic as any I have witnessed in California. To top it all off, many of us ended the night with a waffle implanted with a miniature Belgian flag.

Day 17: The Flint-Liege Connection

July 20

Liege is an intriguing city, to say the least. It is a city of both vernacular and designed beauty, highly stylized and often impressive to behold. I could honestly say, our views from the citadel on the hill were some of the best vantages I have witnessed on the trip thus far (of course, second only to Luxembourg). With plentiful cathedrals, preserved medieval architecture, historic avenues, expansive bridge and water systems, and hillsides reminiscent of my beloved San Francisco, this is a visually remarkable city.

But this abovementioned complimentary ramble does little justice to the true character that lies beneath. In reality, there are issues apparent all throughout the city. Our guide Guy Janssens pointed out the a famous monument (I cannot recall the name) that was close to ruins, had it not been for the leather straps that now hold the stones together. Another noticeable issue in the city is in general infrastructure and maintenance, and its lack thereof. Many of the cobblestone streets have ruptured into piles of rubble. The same goes for the several buildings in terms of general condition.

The best analogy in discussing the city and its current state is with Liege being compared to Flint, Michigan: each city invested everything into a scope of industry, Flint solely on automotives and Liege on its steel production. This lack of diversity has created problems as production and efficiency have all declined in recent decades, due to the fact that both the factories and steel industry in general are outdated. It was unwise to invest and subsidize an industry on the decline. Because of these decisions, Wallonia has not seen the same (relative) prosperity that Flanders has experienced since. And as Flanders has grown in modern industries and service fields, Wallonia has gone down in the opposite direction. Hopefully Liege can diversify and adapt to a more contemporary economy, and avoid the fate of Flint.

Day 16: Belgium and the Great Divide

July 19

Although today was a relatively easygoing day in terms of the scheduled activities, we had a heavy dose of biculturalism present in Belgium along with the ramifications that this has on both casual and formal situations in everyday life. Perhaps most noticeable to the average Belgian is the divide this creates between French-speaking Wallonia and Dutch Flanders. This division is a far cry away from what we picked up on back in Luxembourg, where they are in fact multilingual (French, Luxembourgish, and German). In Luxembourg, all three are taught through grade school so as to prepare the average citizen for most any encounter with the general population. In Belgium, however, each designated region is limited to his or her native language; bilingual speakers are not so encouraged no matter how useful it surely would be.

The problems these create are obvious blocks in communication between the regions. Neither Dutch nor French carry more weight here than the other. Interestingly, the French were once privileged in Belgium by the Middle Age Spanish rulers, while the Dutch were ostracized. Therefore, when Flanders and Wallonia were unified the Dutch were relegated to second class status in relation to the French speakers. This furthered the divide, as regional pride and the animosity associated along with it. But of course here in Brussels, we have not encountered so much of this, with it being a very worldly and cosmopolitan city: bilingualism is more common here, even necessary in a sense.

Perhaps the most outstanding example of the regional divide is in politics, where separationist sentiment from Flanders has brought Belgian parliament to a standstill. In fact, it remains the longest period for a modern nation to go without a stable governing body (not to be confused with a state of anarchy, as the government still functions here). Moving forward, it will become necessary to resolve the tensions that exist between the two regions, as Belgium cannot continue as it does now nor can it remain competitive in the heart of Europe as two separate entities. Furthermore, Brussels will always function as the binding agent between the two regions, as it is mostly French-speaking.

Divide?

Day 15: Hello Brussels

July 18

I didn’t know what to expect coming into Brussels before this program began. In fact, my knowledge of Brussels only went as far as the much disliked sprouts that go by the same namesake. I am, however, now very eager to spend time in what I now know to be the capital of Europe. With such a title to live up to, I fear of being disappointed by what the reader characterizes as the former most beautiful city in the world. In fact, perhaps our overview of the city helped to sober my expectations by declaring the city has gone downhill since.

With that said, our tour through the city was rather impressive, with the blend of various types and eras of architecture, the vast history and political significance throughout, and of course the very impressive Grand Square. I thought the combination of Baroque and Art Nouveau architecture to be a visual treat, and one can only imagine the beauty of the city in its glory years. From the grand cathedrals to the intricate cobblestone work, there are many details to love about the city.

But of course, our tour guide was correct in maintaining a humble opinion on the city. Although there is much to admire about the city, there is yet much to dislike as well. One of the major drawbacks within the city is in poor planning and foresight. For one, the reader mentions the idea of “brusselisation” where many blocks were to be demolished and to be replaced with nothing at all. This creates these mass voids within the city that have remained derelict for many years too long. Furthermore, as mentioned on tour, the “Hausman Plan” that was so successful in Paris seems a little lost in translation to Brussels. In Paris, great throughways and axis were carved into the old city to enliven the core and promote flow in/out and around the city. With Brussels, in the wake of many of these projects there are merely abandoned ruins.

As the capital of both Belgium and all of Europe, the city then must leave much to be desired. But then again as a symbol of the European Union, perhaps it is only necessary to worry about the outer imageability rather than the unseen underbelly of the city. In many ways, it parallels the practice of “façadism” that exists in the city, where the outside remains beautiful while the internal structure deteriorates.

Day 12: Luxembourg a Miniature Europe

July 15

From the little time we had with Luxembourg, at least in terms of instruction and study material, I see that the country is very much defined by its status as an international city. Much of this is due to the need to rely on the outside world (due of course to the relatively small land mass that comprises the country). With this, comes the desire for much sought after European Union, of which Luxembourg pushes for heavily; in fact, the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg is widely considered as “one of the three capitals of Europe” according to the reader.

Because of this reliance on neighboring countries and the world at large, Luxembourg is strongly influenced by outside forces. As quoted from the reader, “thanks to the American aid received… significant progress was achieved in terms of modernization and infrastructure.” This came as a result of both Nazi invasion and Allied liberation. Furthermore, “Luxembourg abandoned its status of neutrality and ensured its place within the international community.” This seemed to be a sort of coming out party for Luxembourg, realizing that out of necessity the country cannot continue to exist independent of the rest of the Western world.

Thu, observing this all from our present time, Luxembourg takes on a profoundly cosmopolitan character. For instance, the multilingualism that exists takes on considerable influence from the proximity and relations with nearby Western European powerhouses Germany and France. Additionally, Luxembourg constitutes the highest proportion of foreigners, of who make up 42% of the population.

Interestingly enough, in the midst of all these outside influences Luxembourgers take a lot of pride in their own national language and identity. There are very few places in the world of such mutually beneficial coexistence between so many different countries of origin. It is a model of how multiculturalism can function in Europe and for the future of the European Union.

Day 11: Netherlands an Indonesian Haven

July 14

Goodbye Amsterdam and hello Luxembourg! Despite the delayed and extensive bus ride over to the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, I have am completely satisfied with how the day went with all considered. In my previous post, I mentioned a bit of disappointment with how this trip has sobered my imaginations of Europe. Coming into Luxembourg has completely reinvigorated my thoughts of that fairy tale atmosphere of castles, forests, and a thriving medieval style city. The city itself in unbelievably beautiful; it is clean, well-maintained, preserved and restored to modern brilliance. The first view from atop an outpost along the bridge to the city center was simply breathtaking, overlooking the river valley below, the full moon shining bright through the clouds, and the city just beginning to light itself up.

Allow me to backtrack just a bit, because the meat of the day consisted of our time in the Indonesian Commemoration Center. With this visit came a very compelling realization for myself and several others that I discussed this with. This is the idea of tradition and heritage: of remembrance and identification. The reason that this struck me so is that I am a second-generation Filipino-America; my parents came from the Philippines 30 years ago in search of a better life. Although they had relatively more choice in the matter in comparison to the Indo-Dutch, I can sympathize with the struggle for identity in a multicultural world.

To paraphrase a quote from the Humphrey Delacroix’s lecture, we have a choice about which identities to maintain. This idea tells me that we are not obligated nor expected to hang onto our roots. But at the same time, our family heritage is inescapable; it is a part of who we are and what we will become. I often identify myself as simply American, yet I will never deny my family heritage. Delacroix explained how this concept of remembrance is often lost in the second generation, but brought back to light in the third generation. I would hope I can help to bridge that gap from my parents to my future children, to create a sense of belonging to their home country the United States as well as a lineage unconstrained by national boundaries and cultural obstacles: I seek a balance, a moderation.

Day 10: The Other Side of the Netherlands

July 13

With this being my first trip out of the US in 11 years, I would say my ten days in the Amsterdam were an easy transition between America and Europe. This I propose with confidence as Amsterdam as a city caters to tourists with a great degree of homage to American ways with its neon lights, plentiful souvenir shops, and never ending night life to name a few. That is not to say that such things are exclusively American, nor characteristic of the typical American city. The fact of the matter is that Amsterdam is not the authentic European experience in the traditional sense of medieval cities with unique and historic cultures. But then again, that may be my own stereotypical image of Europe that I had before actually experiencing it firsthand.

Going along with the theme of expectations, with our final full day in the Netherlands we visited Zaandam, a city that reflects the often imagined vision of the country as a land of windmills, wetlands, cows, and clogs. Although I enjoyed the rural experience of Holland, I found it strange that such a place was so commodified into another tourist attraction. Everything consisted of souvenir shops that made the whole atmosphere seem too inauthentic. To add to this slight disappointment, there was even a photo taken of each of us upon entering the open air museum. I found it not too different than what we see at amusement parks back in the US.

To sum up these thoughts, there is obviously a large discrepancy between our expectations and the actual reality of the situation. Of course, we had a limited scope of the Netherlands -- and I did in fact find Leiden and Haarlem to meet my imaginations of Europe. But what we have in our minds are influenced by many inauthentic sources that combine to form an intriguing and believable image of foreign, exotic lands. It may be best to moderate these thoughts as we continue on our tour of the Low Countries.

Day 9: Dutch-American Relations in the Hague

July 12

Our trip to the Hague was a very fulfilling day, packed with visits to the many attractions and political landmarks present in the city. We started from the Hall of Knights, on to the Dutch House of Representatives, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the Panorama Mesdag, the Maurithuis Art Museum, and finished the day with a lecture from the Dutch Language Association.

I recall having a conversation about the differences between American and Dutch governance, from which we each came up with similarities but far more differences. In a nutshell, we commented on numerous political parties that have come to prominence here in the Netherlands as opposed to the almost complete bipartisanship we have back in the US; we also compared the length and style of the term period spent in office. But rather than rehash the conversation, as it was a lengthy one unsuitable for such a blog as this, I will instead say that what I’ve learned from the Hague is of the same foundation of freedom and liberty that the United States was built on.

I imagined that a trip to Europe would bring about the anti-American attitudes that seem so prevalent in popular culture, where the US are the pigs of the Western world. That’t why I found it intriguing that there appears to be so much enthusiasm to both emulate what had been successful in America as well as collaborate in order to create those bonds that will ultimately make each nation better off moving forward. For example, the short clip we saw of Dutch-American relations (regardless of what I thought to be an absurd amount of intensity) really showcased the passion of working with America on worldly issues. This theme of admiration and cooperation resonated with each speaker, who all seemed eager to reveal Dutch-American parallels.

Perhaps it may be possible that these speakers simply knew their audience and catered to what they thought we wanted to hear. Either way, it is nice to feel so welcomed and beloved in a foreign country. Just the mere mention of Berkeley or California to anybody here usually piques an interest and conversation.

Day 8: Leiden and the City Planner in Me

July 11

It is funny how every new city we go to winds up being my favorite place in the Netherlands. It happened here in Amsterdam, then in Haarlem, again in Utrecht, then again in Leiden. Amsterdam I liked for its atmosphere, Haarlem for its tranquility, Utrecht for its history and diversity, and now Leiden for the combination and balance between all of the characteristics above. Leiden allows for a pleasant enjoyment of beauty, significance, and socializing. Although it may be possible that the lovely weather and extended free time we spent in Leiden attributed to the heightened sense of enjoyment, I do believe Leiden to be my honest choice in favorite cities here (or at least for now…).

Coming from an Urban Studies background, I found this trip particularly exciting as we were granted a guided tour of the city, complete with historic, geographic, political and diplomatic influences that each shaped the city layout and design. For example, they integrated the Rhine River and an old defensive moat in shaping several canals. Additionally, as much of the city remained intact since the medieval times, many of the old buildings had been annexed over to Leiden University campus as room for university expansion diminished. The final point on city layout I wished to touch upon about city design is of the method in which buildings are engineered to lean slightly toward the street to both protect the façades from weather and facilitate drainage as well. It is nice to observe these small details firsthand.

To sum up, I believe it was in lecture that we first heard the saying that “God created the world, but the Dutch created the Netherlands.” Leiden truly exhibited how such a philosophy is implemented as the many features and designs throughout the city attempt to confront the natural elements and political sways that could threaten the city. Overall, our trip to Leiden was quite the treat.

Day 5: The Significance of Colonial Times in the Netherlands.

July 8

Today, we had a two-part lecture period: the first being on the colonial history of the Netherlands and the second on the Dutch multiculturalism. We followed up on this by taking a trip out to the Tropenmuseum to view the exhibits on former Dutch colonies. And to round out the day, as well as instruction for our first week, we held a circle discussion and check-in in Oosterpark.

I found the Tropenmuseum to showcase the link between both colonial times and modern multicultural society. According to the Entzinger article, “one in five persons living in the Netherlands is either an immigrant or a child of an immigrant.” This figure describes the diversity that exists here in the Netherlands, as every colony from the former Dutch Empire served as a feeder into the main country. Although not on the level of the Spanish empire, the Dutch had a fair amount of colonies in many corners on the globe.

The Tropenmuseum was a comprehensive introduction into the various cultures and backgrounds of the twenty percent of the population with roots and connections outside of the country. The museum itself was my favorite to date, both for the content as well as the presentation of the exhibits. The interactive aspects helped to really engage with the material in a refreshing manner. I felt it to be a very modern museum experience.

There are two particular pieces I would like to touch upon. 1) Considering that we are constantly on our feet, it is a very welcome change to sprinkle a museum with so many seating areas. It is easily the most comfortable museum trip I’ve been on, hands down. 2) Going back on the idea of interactivity, I found it particularly rewarding in the costume showcase theater (I cannot recall the exact name of it) to work our own way around through the festivities. And this I felt was the general atmosphere of the entire museum: open-ended, engaging, and comprehensive.

To close out the week, I will add that I am enjoying my stay here in Amsterdam, even more than I had expected. Beside the liveliness and vibrant culture, I believe that one of the major contributors to this overall experience is the openness to foreigners. Coming from the Bay Area, I have always been accustomed to one of the most diverse regions in America; and in leaving to a new country, I was afraid I would lose this culture of tolerance I have always taken for granted. But it is nice to feel welcome into a new country.

Day 4: The Jewish Presence

July 7

Today we focused on the Nazi occupation of the Netherlands and the Holocaust in Dutch history. It was a day of light travel and somber memorial, allowing plenty of time to contemplate each site we visited. This was a sharp change from the somewhat more frantic travels of the preceding days of the trip thus far. We went from the Dutch Resistance Museum, through to the Jewish Historic Museum, and ended the day in the world-renowned hiding place of Anne Frank.

Along this theme of Nazi occupation and Holocaust, Iwanted to touch upon the idea of remembrance and denial. As stated in the lecture by Professor Barnouw, as with any memory remembrance becomes more and more difficult as time goes by. But such a crime against humanity should never be forgotten; instead it should serve as an example of not simply tolerance but acceptance of this multicultural society we now live in.

In terms of denial, I cannot believe anybody can be so ignorant so as to dishonor such a terrible tragedy. An important point made in the De Jong article was that “the Holocaust… was beyond the belief and the comprehension of almost all people living at the time, Jews included.” It would be possible that the situation was simply beyond belief, and may have contributed to the denial that exists here today. Thus, the ignorance can stem from utter disbelief. Regardless of whether it is ignorance or anti-Semitism, such discourse is unacceptable, as Isolde pointed out that in the U.S. , one’s culture and history cannot be denied.

On a brighter note, I appreciate how Jewish heritage is both preserved and recognized here as a major part of the culture of the Netherlands. I enjoyed the availability and accessibility of the many Jewish museums, something I’ve never before witnessed. I presume that this goes to show the multicultural attitude that is so prevalent in Dutch culture.

Day 3: A Dutch Education

July 6

I found Utrecht to be a very charming city, with both the liveliness of Amsterdam and the pleasant street vibe we found throughout Haarlem. It struck a nice, approachable balance between the first two cities we visited. Additionally, Utrecht features one of the premier universities of the Netherlands in Utrecht University. We were welcomed by the Dean of Humanities, a very warm welcome. One thing I’m beginning to notice is that guests are treated far more kindly here than back in the United States.

View from desk in Utrecht University.

For this post, I would like to focus on the Dutch education system, particularly on the pros/cons that the system creates. The strength of it is in the idea of equality, where the three separate high school tracts are regarded in the same manner. There is no air of arrogance when a university tract runs into a vocational/technical school tract. Everyone is treated with the same respect, based on making the best of their abilities.

On the other hand, these tracts are assigned far too early in the lives of students. Many students have not fully matured by the time they are tested into these separate schools, basing a life altering decision on an underdeveloped level of intelligence and work ethic. Additionally, this tract system proves much more difficult to get a second chance or third chance; career options are severely limited, although not completely constrained.

At the same time, the United States system suffers from issues of vast inequality between schools, in instruction quality, student-teacher ratio, and programs offered. In the US, there are also problems with constraints, such as the notion that university education is the only means of upward mobility. In the Dutch system, there are several accessible paths to success that are encouraged. These are made readily available to everybody, as schools are all publicly funded and free for Dutch citizens. In essence, the Dutch system streamlines education, which comes with a few key sacrifices.

Day 2: High Culture in the Dutch Golden Age

July 5

Our focus today was on the Dutch Golden Age, following the liberation led by William of Orange. Thus, we were brought over to both the Franz Hals Museum of Haarlem and the Rijksmuseum of Amsterdam. To conclude the day, most of the group enjoyed the night at one of the local pubs.

Being only Day 2 of many, I found myself surprisingly exhausted. But as we learned in lecture this morning, a common theme in Dutch art is the constant reminder that life is short (derived from the Spanish concept of vanitas). This was blatantly apparent throughout the Franz Hals Museum, with the numerous ticking clocks in many rooms, as well as the subtle skulls, candles, and plant devouring insects that peppered a good portion of the artworks. With that said, I feel it my duty to make the most out of every minute of this program.

On a different note, I found a tremendous disparity between the Golden Age and the so-called atypical style of Dutch icon Vincent van Gogh. It was great to finally get a perspective of these artworks in relation to one another, in visiting the two sites in consecutive days. One of the major differences I noticed is of the break from religion, extravagance and royalty with van Gogh. Furthermore, as taken stated in the reader, “painting as realistically as possible was no longer that important: for a realistic image a photograph could be taken. Instead, painters increasingly attempted to show the reality of the artist himself.”

This concept was a reinvention in both production and comprehension of art that would continue to spark further revolutions in cultured society from that period and onwards.

This Dutch Golden Age painting signifies religion and military might as the power behind royalty.

Day 1: An Amsterdam Welcoming

July 4

Ironically, my first full day in Europe happens to fall on the Fourth of July, one of the most important days in the history of my home country, the United States. It shouldn’t be hard to believe, then, that this brought a sense of not necessarily home-sickness, but perhaps nostalgia in celebrating the birth of my homeland.

With our full day of activities, however, it wasn’t long before I was entranced by the beauty and atmosphere of Amsterdam. Following an introductory lecture to the course, we students were fortunate enough to visit the Vincent van Gogh Museum, take a boat tour through the famous canals of the city, and walk through the even more infamous Red Light District. I couldn’t imagine a more fitting welcome to the most liberal city in the world.

This brings me to my main point of discussion here for today, of the often misunderstood concept of tolerance in Amsterdam. Whereas many (myself included) imagine most vices and liberal policies to be legal here, there is instead implemented the concept of gedogen, meaning “to tolerate.” Although we learned in class that this was meant to lessen criminalization of the system, others would argue that it promotes further criminal behavior in other less tolerable actions.

What I imagine is that this back and forth rhetoric of the opposing sides will continually play out in a pendulum effect, in that both liberal and conservative values will gain more momentum generation by generation. It will be interesting how current public policy here in the Netherlands will carry over throughout time.

But in the meantime, gedogen is here and tolerance will prevail. Below are a couple instances in how this applied during our first day.

It almost seems to encourage the use of soft drugs.

Although not visible here, I recall both alcohol and marijuana aboard the neighboring boat.