Day 15: Hello Brussels

July 18

I didn’t know what to expect coming into Brussels before this program began. In fact, my knowledge of Brussels only went as far as the much disliked sprouts that go by the same namesake. I am, however, now very eager to spend time in what I now know to be the capital of Europe. With such a title to live up to, I fear of being disappointed by what the reader characterizes as the former most beautiful city in the world. In fact, perhaps our overview of the city helped to sober my expectations by declaring the city has gone downhill since.

With that said, our tour through the city was rather impressive, with the blend of various types and eras of architecture, the vast history and political significance throughout, and of course the very impressive Grand Square. I thought the combination of Baroque and Art Nouveau architecture to be a visual treat, and one can only imagine the beauty of the city in its glory years. From the grand cathedrals to the intricate cobblestone work, there are many details to love about the city.

But of course, our tour guide was correct in maintaining a humble opinion on the city. Although there is much to admire about the city, there is yet much to dislike as well. One of the major drawbacks within the city is in poor planning and foresight. For one, the reader mentions the idea of “brusselisation” where many blocks were to be demolished and to be replaced with nothing at all. This creates these mass voids within the city that have remained derelict for many years too long. Furthermore, as mentioned on tour, the “Hausman Plan” that was so successful in Paris seems a little lost in translation to Brussels. In Paris, great throughways and axis were carved into the old city to enliven the core and promote flow in/out and around the city. With Brussels, in the wake of many of these projects there are merely abandoned ruins.

As the capital of both Belgium and all of Europe, the city then must leave much to be desired. But then again as a symbol of the European Union, perhaps it is only necessary to worry about the outer imageability rather than the unseen underbelly of the city. In many ways, it parallels the practice of “façadism” that exists in the city, where the outside remains beautiful while the internal structure deteriorates.