Ieper is the second of the three great medieval cities we visit during this three day span. It was similar to Ghent in that it served as one of the industrial cores of Flanders, but with less significance as a commercial outlet. But at least in terms of aesthetics, the central square of Ieper I would say is even grander than that of Ghent. Of course, this is purely subjective and also takes into account the improved weather conditions and lack of a festival to clean up after. Additionally Ghent reminded me of Berkeley, where each and every day something new in going under maintenance or construction.
But alas, the main part of the story of Ieper is not of its medieval significance nor of its contemporary beauty, but rather of the role the city played during the Great War. In WWI, Ieper served as one of the strongholds of Belgian defenses against the German invasion. And when the once conventional combat style shifted towards the drawn out trench warfare, Ieper was right at the forefront of the carnage. When we studied Ieper in lecture last week, we were given a preview of the destruction and saw how much of the city was leveled. That scene, however, did not portray the bravery and sacrifice that has become synonymous with the city and its heroic role in the war effort.
I found this entire day to be particularly moving, not so much in glorifying war and violence that is often done in movies, but instead in revealing the struggles of a nation in resistance; Belgium’s assertion of neutrality was not honored and drove them to fight for their own independence. This is something we can all relate to, in fighting for freedom and civil liberties against an encroachment on our natural rights.
The transition between the Flanders Fields Museum, the war cemetery, the old trenches and ramparts, and finally culminating with the Last Post Memorial was a very emotional journey. WWI left much of Europe in a wasteland, full of death and decay. Our city guide Wouter Sinaeve did a tremendous job of conveying both the pain of the struggle as well as the pride in the resistance during the war. Although nearly a century has passed, Ieper will be forever entrenched with the heroism of which it was associated.
The Great War was said to be the “war to end all wars.” Apparently this was not the case as time would tell. One of the lasting impressions I had of our trip to Iepers is of the Last Post and what was said of it. Yes, the Last Post is a commemoration of the efforts of the fallen soldiers, but also to serve as a reminder of the ideals of the Great War. It is important to have these daily confrontations with the past in order to move forward into a better tomorrow.
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